Snake Gulch on the Kanab Creek Wilderness (Arizona)
In respect to archaeological significance, Snake Gulch
is a particularly intriguing side canyon on the Kanab Creek
drainage. Prehistoric American Indians used the gulch as a
thoroughfare to move back and forth between the plateau
above Kanab Creek on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and
the South Rim’s Havasu Canyon. A byproduct of these
extensive travels is a concentration of pictographs
unequaled anywhere in the Southwestern U.S. It appears the
ancients used the drawings much like billboards along our
modern highways to communicate to fellow travelers messages
of various types. A five mile stretch of canyon wall is a
veritable gallery of rock art as every face smooth enough
to paint on has a colorful depiction and message.
This trip takes us to the North Rim of Grand Canyon National
Park. From Jacobs Lake, Arizona we travel over forest
service roads to one of the trailheads at Jumpup Canyon,
Slide Canyon, or Snake Gulch, all of which offer access to
Kanab Creek. Jacobs Lake, at an elevation of over 8,000
feet, is situated in beautiful ponderosa pine forests. The
trailheads lie on the Kanab Creek Wilderness boundary at an
elevation of 5700 feet in the pinion/juniper zone. From
this point of initiation, we descend to an elevation of
3800 feet on the canyon floor.
As one of the major side canyons of the Grand Canyon, Kanab
Creek is awesome in scope. The canyon bottom is a quarter mile
wide in most
places, with abrupt 800 to 1500 foot cliffs forming the
walls. The geology of the top half of the Grand Canyon wall
is revealed in these cliffs through which we have just
descended.
In addition to the dominating geology, the area offers abundant evidence of the previous residency of archaic Indian, basket maker, and pueblo cultures. Although there are few ruins to be found, the rock art is truly amazing. Pictographs and petroglyphs offer an historical account of habitation by these ancient peoples. These archaic, polychromatic panels, contrasted with the desolate remains of pioneer homesteads, some abandoned as late as the 1930’s, produce a vivid image of what the transaction of life in this place has looked like over the last 1500 years.
Before we begin our
inevitable return to civilization and turn from Kanab
Creek, the final vista down canyon reveals the massive
cliffs of the Grand Canyon itself. Here, on the boundary of
the National Park, we get a glimpse of the power and scope
of the natural forces that shaped our
planet.
This trip is not for the casual or out-of-shape hiker. Each route involves at least one day’s travel of 10 miles or more. In addition, water is typically in short supply and varies with the season. We occasionally make one or two dry camps using only the water carried by our hard working llamas. In particularly dry years we may even need to use water cached ahead of time. No excess for primping here, just the bare essentials of drinking and cooking.
Because of the educational opportunities this area offers,
the Museum of Northern Arizona is sponsoring this trip.
Naturalist, Stewart Aitchison and rock art interpreter, Joe
Pachak will provide expert commentary and interpretation of
the many aspects of the gulch. Buckhorn Llama Co., Inc.
will handle guide and llama support. Check schedule for dates. Contact
Buckhorn Llama Company through this site or Museum of
Northern AZ 520-774-5211 Ext. 220 Contact: Tracy.